Saturday, August 01, 2009

九月的魅力中欧(一)- Let's Go


1.1 Let's Go

五月从南美的玻利维亚回来,还意犹未尽时,又开始盘算着下站去哪儿,我真是中了旅行的毒,欲罢不能。不奢求活得传奇,只是希望活得没有遗憾,可是谁又没有遗憾呢?其实不甘心这三个字最是折磨人。

于是又上路了,在明媚的九月,奔向那生命不能承受之美的Central Europe......

没想到跟团的那个是我,作为一名“资深”背包客的我,似乎有点不可思议。当朋友知道后,居然问:“Are you out of your mind?" 为什么要跟团就不要提了,其实就是一时贪图方便呗!平心而论,跟团也不是一无是处的,尤其是比起国内的旅游团,国外正规的旅行团真的好多了,至少没有浪费任何时间在所谓的旅游商店,而且自由活动时间很多,到达一个城市后,你也可以依自己的喜好安排。

不过如果下次的话,可以肯定的是跟团决不会是我的首选。



行程 Central Europe Itinerary (8/30 - 9/14, 2008):

8/30 - Depart Toronto (Air Transat)

8/31 - Arrive Frankfurt, meet COSMO Tour Director and fellow travellers

9/1 - Frankfurt - Weimar - Berlin
Northeast today for a stop in Weimar, one-time intellectual heart of Germany. Journey past Jena, over the River Elbe for a few miles into Germany's Capital city, Berlin.

9/2 - Berlin
No longer divided but every bit as fascinating, now once again it is Germany's capital. Afternoon excursion to historic Potsdam.

9/3 - Berlin - Warsaw (Poland)
Drive east to Poznan, one of Poland's oldest trading centers. See more of the Polish countryside on the way to Warsaw.

9/4 - Warsaw
The included morning sightseeing tour is an excellent introduction to Warsaw, magnificently reconstructed after wartime destruction. Free time to explore Warsaw at your own pace in the afternoon.

9/5 - Warsaw - Krakow
Stop on the way to Krakow to visit the Auschwitz concentration camp

9/6 - Krakow
Free day to explore Krakow, Poland's most beautiful city, at your own pace and mingle with the locals.

9/7 - Krakow - Budapest (Hungary)
A very comfortable and scenic drive through Poland and Slovakia, finally into Hungary - Budapest, the most lively of Eastern European capitals.

9/8 - Budapest
Included morning sightseeing features Buda Castle which dominates the twin cities of Buda and Pest, separated by the broad ribbon of the Danube; Free time to wander around in the afternoon and then joined a 1-hour Danube cruise and illumination

9/9 - Budapest - Vienna (Austria)
Head for the Austrian boarder, arrive Vienna early afternoon to enjoy the included sightseeing tour; Unforgettable evening with Kursalon Waltz concert.

9/10 - Vienna - Prague (Czech Republic)
Free time to explore Vienna in the morning. Afternoon cross the Czech boarder into Moravia, then through the rich farmlands to Prague.

9/11 - Prague
Tour to see the famous Castle then free afternoon to enjoy this lovely and romantic capital

9/12 - Prague - Munich (Germany)
Into the landscape of the Bohemian Forest before reaching the Czech-German boarder. Drive south, enjoy the Bavarian sceneray, to the "Secret Capital" Munich.

9/13 - Munich - Frankfurt
The highlight today is undoubtedly the Romantic Road, which runs South to North as far as the Alps. Visit Rothenburg with its ramparts and towers, cobbled streets, and 16th-century houses.

9/14 - Early afternoon flight back to Toronto (Air Transat)



Sunday, April 26, 2009

恋恋风尘玻利维亚 (八)- Bustling City of La Paz


La Paz, is a dizzying in every respect, not only for its well-publicized altitude (3660m), but also for its quicky beauty. It's located at the base of a canyon 5km wide and sprawing impromptu housing all the way up the surrounding hillsides. On a clear day, the imposing showy, snowy Mt Illimani (6402m) looms in the background.

It's absolutely an extraordinary city!

8.1 Bustling city of La Paz



La Paz, 世界上海拔最高的首都,坐落在气候恶劣的安迪斯峡谷里。山谷只有5公里的宽度,里面聚满密密麻麻的屋子,峡谷的中央是首都最繁荣和热闹的地区,摩天高楼,拥挤的车道,非常繁忙。那些比较简陋的屋子,就遍布在高处陡削的斜坡上。而不远处市是那座6400多米高的雪山(Illimani)。



位于市中心的 Iglesia de San Francisco 天主教堂建于1549年,充满西班牙风味,雕刻极其精美。这也是市民喜欢聚集的场所,门前的小广场上到处是悠闲晒太阳的人们,还有嬉戏的孩子们。




在La Paz,有很多保存完好的各类建筑,具有浓郁的西班牙风格,融合着当地印加的文明。没事时闲逛逛,是种很好的视觉感受。

不过要是想好好游览拉巴斯(La Paz),非有好脚力和气魄不可,不然就会活受罪了。原来这里到处是斜坡,有的还是非常陡峭。而且可别忘了拉巴斯海拔近4000米,氧气不足,爬斜坡可不是儿戏!不过当地治安良好,大可放心随处游荡。




拉巴斯还是保留着非常浓厚的印地安传统与风俗。街上到处可以看到穿着传统服装的印地安妇女,头上带着圆形高帽,绑着长辫子,背着颜色鲜艳的包袱。



市政厅前的警卫。



San Francisco教堂附近最值得一提的是那分门别类、道地当地色彩的市场了。这些市场包括菜市场、鲜花市场、食物市场,甚至还有“巫婆市场”(Witches' Market)呢!巫婆市场就在教堂后面, 卖的都是些古灵精怪,不知所云的驱邪物。在这儿拍照是不受欢迎的,还是忍不住,偷偷地拍了一张。



With streets lined with market stalls and vendors, the pace on the street and the vibrant atmosphere is an incredible experience.



明天(5/28)清晨回多伦多的飞机,半夜3点就要出门,一思量还是晚上去机场合算,索性在这个世界上最高的国际机场过个夜。

没想到虽说La Paz机场半夜是不关门的,但因为没什么航班,所以把空调关了,灯也熄了大半。在昏暗寒冷的候机大厅,我苦苦煎熬,直到清晨。


Wednesday, April 22, 2009

恋恋风尘玻利维亚(七)- Thrilling Downhill Madness


It's official: the road between La Paz and Coroico is "the World's Most Dangerous Road" (WMDR), according to an Inter-American Development Bank (IDB) report. Given the number of fatal accidents that occur on it , the moniker is well deserved - a gravel track just 3.2m wide (just enough for one vehicle), sheer 600m drops, hulking rock overhands and waterfalls that spill across and erode the road......

7.1 Thrilling Downhill Madness



的确是世界上最危险的路(只有3米宽,一边就是悬崖峭壁),但是如果可以在这条路上飞驰而下64公里,海拔下降3600米或11800英尺,岂不是有了往后茶余饭后的谈资,我小小的Eagal又膨胀了一下,头脑一发热就报了名。

坦白地说,报了名后,我一直忐忑不安,这可是拿自己老大不小的命在赌啊!更何况我的山地车的技术并不高,要是万一......

幸好前一段路已经重新修过,从照片上看要比以往的状况要好很多,索性咬咬牙,硬着头皮上!大不了鄙视自己一回,中途放弃,再上“救济车”。




当天(5/24)参加B-Side团的有十来位,都是世界各地慕名而来的背包客。整装待发前的合影!




小女子的“雌姿” ~^~

前一段修好的路还是蛮好走的,刚开始全是下坡,不费力气,可还是紧张啊,下冲的速度太快,全身的力气都使在控制刹车了!




出发的地带有4千来米,属高寒地,远处的云雾渐渐地漫了上来,湮没公路,强劲的寒风吹在脸上生痛。



来到真正的Death Road,我的心提在嗓子眼上,根本没心思去观赏周围美丽的风景,我所有的注意力都在自己眼前的几方道路上,也不敢往一边的深渊下探望,双手紧紧地卡在刹车上。有时车速过快,一刹车,听见车轮和沙砾吱吱的磨擦声,我的心就会紧张地咚咚跳......



经过大半天的煎熬,谢谢上苍,我居然安全抵达终点,精神终于可以放松,一下子瘫在小酒馆的长椅上。大家互相拥抱着,恭喜着,举起酒瓶,来,干杯!Cheers......



We have survived!!!

Monday, April 20, 2009

恋恋风尘玻利维亚(六)- Incredible Copacabana


Nestled between two hills and perched on the southern shore of Lake Titicaca, Copacabana, is a small, bright and charming town. Although it appears a little tourist-ready, it is a pleasant place to wander around. Nevertheless, this is the launching pad for visiting the magical Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun).



6.1 重逢的美丽

那是2005年,仍是明媚的五月,我曾站在Titicaca湖的那一边向这儿遥遥相望。当时在秘鲁那边,远处白雪皑皑的玻利维亚瑞厄山脉清晰可见,凝视中曾想着什么时候可以去湖的那边去看看。不过几年的时光,我又来到Titicaca湖,在玻利维亚这一边,享受着重逢的美丽。



从Uyuni开的夜车凌晨时分抵达La Paz,我直接买了去Copacabana的车票,为了还心中那几年前的心愿,去看看Titicaca湖的这边是不是一样的魅力无穷。



中午时分到了Copacabana,一连找了好几家旅舍才安顿下来,早已饥肠辘辘,这一顿吃的那个香啊!

Feeling fishy? You're in luck. 在Copacabana,最有特色的就是fring fish,一般是Rainbow Trout或是King Fish。我不挑剔,只要好吃就行。



酒足饭饱,打着满意的饱嗝,开始了半日的瞎逛。Copacabana是个很小的城镇,在这里溜达是不需要地图的。就着山势,总归能找着回去的路。



Look heavenward to survey the mudejar (Moorish) domes of Copacabana's cathederal

这应该是Copacabana的标志物了,以前在不少旅游刊物上见过她的照片。在Copacabana,你是不会错过她的,因为实在是太显眼了。仰视,苍穹般的Dome迎面压下,远处的蓝天蓝得刺眼。



几个小时就把Copacabana逛的差不多了,接下来的该是今天的重头戏了- 坐看日落。在Copacabana欣赏日落的最佳地点是Calvario山的顶峰,于是又是近一个小时的攀登,气喘吁吁赶到时正是时候,精彩的日落正在上演......




天边的颜色不停的变幻着,映在碧蓝的湖中,异常美丽





橙光似更浓烈了,绕着落日,大片大片的火烧云,绚丽地四散铺开。




仿佛天公提了一枝饱蘸重彩的巨笔,在青色的天际,层涂罩色,点染留空,几度撒手,便是一幅无与伦比的壮丽水彩。



6.2 行走天地间 (Isla Del Sol)

With a host of ancient ruins, tiny traditional villages, beautiful walking rountes and a distinctly Aegean look, magical Isla Del Sol does deserve a day or two.

第二天(5/21)决定去太阳岛徒步。

一大早赶到码头。这儿叫做Copacabana Beach,虽和巴西里约热内卢闻名的Copacabana Beach同名,但自是不可相提并论的。只是对于玻利维亚这个内陆国家来说,这个Copacabana Beach已足以让人们趋之若鹜。




坐船一个多小时来到太阳岛的北端,开始了一天的徒步。记住这儿可是4000来米的海拔,还有太阳岛顾名思义,太阳可是出生在这儿的,自然比较强烈,所以请带好足够的水。




虽说在这么高的海拔徒步并不轻松,但那美丽的风景足以让人心旷神怡!




在太阳庙的遗址外,居然还需再买票,索性不进了,在外面开始我的摄影创作。简朴的花瓶,艳丽的红花,还有看门的这位大叔。




绵延的山路,好像没有尽头。



行走的感觉,不就是在这样的一片天地间么?




Titicaca湖水梦幻般的深蓝一直沿到天边, 远处白雪皑皑的雪山静静地横在地平线上......



明媚的日光在高原纯净的空气下显得更加通透......