Saturday, January 20, 2007

走过Patagonia (六) - El Calafate

6.1 El Calafate 印象

El Calafate, 原本不过是偏远的一个小镇,镇上的居民大都以畜牧业为生。得益于旅游业的发展,和Patagonia的盛名,全世界的徒步爱好者对此趋之若鹜。这儿已俨然成了安第斯山脉中一颗最璀粲的明珠,有点洛矶山Banff小镇的味道:天然美景和宁静淳朴。据说不少好来坞的大腕儿也在这儿买了地,作为度假休闲的地方。


街头一角

在徒步或游冰川之余,在小城里悠闲地行走是另外一种乐趣,当然,如果你荷包够鼓的话。坦白地说,El Calafate是我发现在阿根挺买手信最贵的地方。



除此之外,El Calafate是个挺可爱,也蛮有情调的小城。蓝天白云,雪山冰湖,空气的味道也很清纯。沿街的商铺里有各式各样精致的有特色的玩意儿;在露天酒吧也可得到极致的享受,一杯咖啡或一瓶啤酒,可以很惬意地打发一个下午;我们在El Calafate常光顾的还有个冰淇淋店,里面的冰淇淋真的很美味。


6.2 蓝色的视觉盛宴

今天要去的是一个令人向往的冰川游轮一日游.

We sail Lago Argentino towards and disembarked at Onelli Bay for an 800 meters walk through the forest. We reached Onelli Bay where Bolado Glacier (16 sq km), Onelli Glacier(45 sq km) and Agassiz Glacier(31 sq km) flow into it and fill it with countless icebergs that highlight the dazzling of the scenery. It’s really cool !

Then we sailed to the Northern Arm of the Lake Argentino toward Upsala, the largest continental glacier in Argentina national park and the longest one in South America. There are many blue icebergs floating around and they are not little at all. Their ice blue colour sparkling in the sun is very captivating.

The last glacier we visited is Spegazzini, the tallest continental glacier in the Southern Hemisphere. What makes it breath taking is the fact that the glacier ends in a lake and shows a solid wall of ice of about 80-100 meters. It is also unique because it shows no signs of receding, a common phenomenon in large glaciers. On the contrary, its front wall seems larger. Pretty impressive!

A brilliant sunny day added to the enjoyment of this long spectacular boat cruise and makes me keep think it’s the best glaciers trip I’ve ever seen, and tomorrow is another day to see the famous Moreno Glacier ……






这片湖叫Lago Onelli,据游轮的导游介绍,是三个冰川的交汇处。冰川一直连到湖上,塌落下来的冰块落入湖中,就形成了美丽的冰山。冰山慢慢的在湖水中消融,成了现在的千奇百怪.




远方的雪山在湖水中也是巍峨耸立,整个世界在明媚的阳光下显得极为通透。漫步在湖边,时间仿佛是停滞的。



Upsala冰川,据说是南美最长最广博的冰川,一眼望去,绵绵延延,不见边际,气势雄伟。你可以感受到一种说不清的自然力量, 逼迫而来。





在阿根廷湖上行驶,最动人心魄的便是千姿百态的冰山,静静地漂浮在碧绿的湖水上。有的通体纯白,有的泛着神秘的蓝光。在明媚温柔的阳光下,有点不真实。再加上在湖上的倒影,实在是亦幻亦真,美妙绝伦。闭上眼睛,置身如诗入画的美景之中,我心荡然。

当纯净的兰色冰壁似乎触手可及的时候,整个人都为之震撼. 那种晶莹的蓝,美得如此的不真实。发挥自己的想象力吧!


深邃的冰洞,诱惑的蓝, 让人窒息。




Glaciar Spegazzini高度达80多米,是南半球最高的大陆冰川。


再来一个大特写

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